Start: Kazimierz
The ride begins on the south bank of the Vistula, just below Wawel Castle. At 7am the city is still quiet — just the river, a few fishermen, and the sound of tyres on wet stone. The path is flat, well-surfaced and mostly car-free all the way to Niepołomice.
This is the Vistula Cycling Route — part of the EuroVelo 11 network — and it is one of the best urban escape routes I have ridden anywhere in Central Europe.
The Forest
After the city limits, the route enters the Niepołomice Forest — a royal hunting ground that has survived intact since the 14th century. Pine trees 30 metres tall, almost no undergrowth, a carpet of needles that deadens every sound. In the middle of the forest, a medieval castle appears without warning.
I stopped here for 20 minutes and did not check my phone once.
The Numbers
Total distance: 35 km one way. Elevation gain: 80 metres — barely noticeable. Recommended gear: any road or gravel bike. Best season: April to October. The route is fully signposted and safe for beginners.
Take the train back from Niepołomice to Kraków. It takes 45 minutes and costs almost nothing.